My hatch seals were 21 years old, and were starting to leak, so I picked up a 10′ length of replacement seal from West Marine.  The old seals had flattened out and combined with their age, they had also shrunk to the point where the hatch did not even make contact with the seal at various spots anymore, this project was a little overdue.

Old gasket vs New gasket

Old gasket vs New gasket

Removal of the old gasket wasn’t too difficult, but between both hatches it still took an hour and a half or more. Under the old seal there was a heavy layer of dirt that was tough to clean out, and a residual bit of glue from the old gasket that was rather persistent, but acetone was able to cut through it pretty easily and it didn’t take too much effort to leave a clean surface. I didn’t remove all the old glue as it required a bit of scraping and I didn’t want to damage the gelcoat.

Cleaned out gasket groove

Cleaned out gasket groove

The instructions said to make a straight cut and super glue the ends of the gasket together, but if I did that then the hatch would crush the joint and over time it would destroy the joint and the surrounding material. Instead I chose to make a 45 degree joint so the hatch would press the joint flat instead of crushing it.

Gasket Joint

Gasket Joint

The forward hatch was harder to see the completed gasket on as the picture needed to be more zoomed out in order to fit the larger hatch in the photo, but you can see the main cabin hatch and it’s 45deg joint below. Remember the old gasket no longer reached above the U shaped track it sits in.

New gasket installed

New gasket installed

 

6 Responses to “Replacing Bomar Hatch seals”

  • Don says:

    Hello Brian:

    I stumbled upon your blog whiel researching replacing the gasket in the Bomar hatch in our Bayfield 32.

    A useful entry, but a couple of questions:

    1) What did you use to glue the gasket in place?

    2) On our hatch the gasket (which may not be original) is in the lid, not the base as your photos illustrate. Any thoughts?

    Thanks,

    Don.

    • The gasket I found has it’s own adhesive backing that you just pull the cover strip off of and push down. Once it’s fit into place I closed the hatch tightly for about 48 hours to allow the adhesive to really set. Haven’t had a single issue with it since.

  • Kurt Hannig says:

    Ok this is on my need to do list any chance you have the part # for the gasket?
    Thanks

  • Kurt Hannig says:

    Finished mine had to use the dremel tool to get some of the glue out. Someone had put new gaskets in and just put glue over the dirt and old glue. Replaced the two front ports which I am sure you will under take at some time. Wish I had taken pictures as it would help describe the job. The port side hole had been cut to close to the bulkhead and the hole was just moved over an inch and filled the area with caulk and wood scraps for the screws. Had about an 1/8 of an inch to seal to the gelcoat. Made a spacer from 1/2 plastic to fill the void between the inner and outer hulls as I am through bolting the ports in. Did not like the glued outer part and bomar sells a bolt kit. Love following your repairs as I have all the same issues. Keep up the good work.

    • Thanks! I did a partial rebed on those portlights a couple years ago because one was definitely leaking, and the other seemed to be as well. I didn’t have time to do it right as my Dad was flying in the next day, specifically to spend 4 days on the boat. I removed the bezel, cleaned all the old 795 as best as I could, and injected a bunch to fill the hole, then laid down a bead around the frame and readhered the bezel. I don’t think it’s leaking, but it’s still on my to-do to remove and properly rebed. Luckily when I did this I didn’t see anything too worrysome about the holes like you described…

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